Do let me know what you think of and/or want from my thoughts, folks...
Okay, time for some more serious talkin'. I'm going to start very basic, with some of the simple fuseki decisions for beginners, then I'll hopefully get into some more meaty stuff discussing the first joseki choice.
I know you may've heard this stuff before umpteen times in other Malkovich games, but I also know there are still beginners around here who need to be reminded of these things.
After black 5, the top left is the only "unfinished" corner - corners where an enclosure (and thus also an approach preventing an enclosure) are very high value. Thus white 6 must address the top left. I chose a large knights move shimari, which, though territorial, is a slightly less solid but faster developing choice to counterpoint my 3-3 stone, which is very solid but has little developmental potential.
Next, black 7 is the biggest (almost compulsory) fuseki point. It is the natural extension of both my enclosure (which I have invested two stones in) and his hoshi, a sideways focused stone (who's other side is shared with an apathetic 3-3). Black 7 is a very good move, but I am compensated somewhat by getting the first corner approach.
Eight and nine are both very natural moves - I approach the bottom left, because another black move there would create a very powerful position for him (a shimari with an ideal extension or maybe a double-wing formation). After 8, black's pincer stops white settling easily, considering that the normal 3-3 invasion joseki result will likely be too good for black with D10 already in place.
Which brings us to part II; joseki choice. (I'll post it in a while...)
I know you may've heard this stuff before umpteen times in other Malkovich games, but I also know there are still beginners around here who need to be reminded of these things.
- Click Here To Show Diagram Code
[go]$$B
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$$ | . . . 3 . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |
$$ | . . . . . 8 . 9 . . . . . . . . 2 . . |
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$$ ---------------------------------------[/go]
After black 5, the top left is the only "unfinished" corner - corners where an enclosure (and thus also an approach preventing an enclosure) are very high value. Thus white 6 must address the top left. I chose a large knights move shimari, which, though territorial, is a slightly less solid but faster developing choice to counterpoint my 3-3 stone, which is very solid but has little developmental potential.
Next, black 7 is the biggest (almost compulsory) fuseki point. It is the natural extension of both my enclosure (which I have invested two stones in) and his hoshi, a sideways focused stone (who's other side is shared with an apathetic 3-3). Black 7 is a very good move, but I am compensated somewhat by getting the first corner approach.
Eight and nine are both very natural moves - I approach the bottom left, because another black move there would create a very powerful position for him (a shimari with an ideal extension or maybe a double-wing formation). After 8, black's pincer stops white settling easily, considering that the normal 3-3 invasion joseki result will likely be too good for black with D10 already in place.
Which brings us to part II; joseki choice. (I'll post it in a while...)
Part II:
The Joseki
I'm actually an avid sanrensei player, so white approaching with the black D10 stone already present is a situation I'm pretty comfortable with. The situation in the two orthagonal corners and tengen is novel, though, so this will bear some thinking. Gonna throw a couple of ideas out there for starters:
I'm going to go for choice #3, as it seems to leave more vulnerabilities in black's bottom left I can use to erode his points, and, by my current reading, I can get something dynamic happening with this joseki and my 3-3 if I keep pushing.
I'm actually an avid sanrensei player, so white approaching with the black D10 stone already present is a situation I'm pretty comfortable with. The situation in the two orthagonal corners and tengen is novel, though, so this will bear some thinking. Gonna throw a couple of ideas out there for starters:
- Click Here To Show Diagram Code
[go]$$Wcm1
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$$ | . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
$$ | . . O , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |
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$$ | . . 2 X 4 5 . . . , . . . . . , . . . |
$$ | . . 1 3 6 O . X . . . . . . . . O . . |
$$ | . . 9 8 7 0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
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$$ ---------------------------------------[/go]
- Click Here To Show Diagram Code
[go]$$Wcm1 A framework reducing joseki
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$$ | . . . X . . . . . X . . . . . , . . . |
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$$ | . . . . . . . 3 . . . . . . . . . . . |
$$ | . . . X . 5 . 1 2 , . . . . . , . . . |
$$ | . . . . . O 4 X . . . . . . . . O . . |
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- Click Here To Show Diagram Code
[go]$$Wcm1
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$$ | . . . 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
$$ | . . . . . 1 . 5 . . . . . . . . . . . |
$$ | . . . X . . . 4 3 7 9 . . . . , . . . |
$$ | . . . . . O . X 6 8 . 0 . . . . O . . |
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$$ ---------------------------------------[/go]
I'm going to go for choice #3, as it seems to leave more vulnerabilities in black's bottom left I can use to erode his points, and, by my current reading, I can get something dynamic happening with this joseki and my 3-3 if I keep pushing.
- Click Here To Show Diagram Code
[go]$$B
$$ ---------------------------------------
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$$ | . . O , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |
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$$ | . . . X . . . . . X . . . . . , . . . |
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$$ | . . . . . W . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |
$$ | . . . . . O . X . . . . . . . . O . . |
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$$ ---------------------------------------[/go]
Just out of interest, Shaddy and I've actually played quite a few games evenly, in the ASR league and so forth (with predictable results
). I feel all these even games with stronger players has boosted my standard of play quite a lot; also they're better to review, as my opponent makes less mistakes (than against someone my own rank for example)